Professional Decoration

Interior Decorating for Wooden Floors

prodecoration — Mon, 02 Oct 2017 11:29:30 +0000

Wooden flooring is highly sought after or its longevity, easy maintenance, and benefits for those with allergies. But most of all, people love timber flooring because it looks great. Make the most of your timber floors’ good looks with our guide to designing your home interior in way that complements floorboards.

Define Your Space with Carpets and Rugs

Though wood is much easier on the feet than tiles, it is not nearly as comfortable underfoot as carpet. For areas that see a lot of foot traffic, carpets or rugs are a great way to mitigate this – as well as prevent damage to the floor from scuffing and scraping. But apart from these practical considerations there are good design reasons for incorporating rugs too. Carpets and area rugs help you divide and define your rooms.

For example, rather than having the chairs and sofas that make up your lounge suite dotted like lonely islands in a sea of oak flooring, well-placed carpets can create a little continent for them. This will create a more inviting and coherent feel for your home and can be used to enhance everything from walkways, to sitting areas, to your dining room.

Balancing and Softening Wooden Flooring

Oak lends a visual weight to any room with its solidity and firmness. Balance this with softer fabrics and area rugs made from sheepskin, lamb’s wool or something similar. This will not only add a great visual contract, but it will change the tactile experience of your home as well. Especially when walking barefoot, the change from cool, firm floorboards to softness and warmth is quite delightful.

Pairing Furniture and Décor

Oak flooring is often associated with very traditional, even archaic, home interiors – think oak furniture with burgundy cushioning, an open fire, hunting rifle over the mantelpiece, and the smell of a roast from the kitchen. But wooden flooring actually creates a pleasing juxtaposition when paired with sleek modern elements. Expand your notion of what matches wooden flooring to include sleek steel furniture, contemporary cabinets, modern art and sculpture, and modern-industrial design features.

If you do decide to match wood with wood, forget the idea that wood tones should match. That will actually make your home look to uniform – you don’t want feature elements blending into the floor! Instead, blends the rough and rustic with the stained and polished in varied stains and grains for a collected-over-time look. A slat stump end table is perfectly at home against raw wood accents or polished oak floors.

Getting Colour Right

The colour profile of wooden flooring can range from light and delicate to dark and heavy, and everything in between. Understanding how to complement these colours is essential to decorating around floorboards. In a home with dark floorboards, dark walls, furniture, and décor will create an oppressive, gloomy feel.

Instead, lighten the room with light-coloured walls, carpets, cabinets, and so on. But don’t feel locked in by lightness – a dramatic effect can be created by dark flooring, light walls, and pitch black leather sofas; it just depend what works for your room. For lighter wooden flooring, the opposite rule applies. Pair light wooden flooring with darker walls and light, with minimalist furniture.

How To Fix Floor And Wall Tiles

prodecoration — Fri, 17 Jun 2016 03:13:59 +0000

Tiles are part of house decorations whose use has been elevated across the globe. Installing tiles on your house could prove to be very tricky but with some experience you can easily work it out. Planning before you start fixing the tiles will prove beneficial and not only to the owner but to the person fixing them. Some of the tools used for this job are; tape measure, spirit level, tile cutter, tile adhesive trowel, pipe detector, grout spreader, tile file and jigsaw.

Some tiles need great care and handling as they can easily break. When fixing mosaic tiles in you wall or floors, you need to measure the area which you are intending to tile. You then divide with the length of the tile to obtain the number of tiles you need in that areas. It is necessary to increase the length of the tile while cutting by 5%-10%. This is done in case of breakages that might occur during the installation. Planning the layout area is also necessary as it will help you to avoid uneven spacing and poor alignment of tiles. Make sure that your space is well utilized and makes sure that you leave some space for the cement.

Shopping For Kids Bedroom Furniture

prodecoration — Fri, 17 Jun 2016 03:08:13 +0000

When you start shopping for your kids bedroom furniture, you will see a number of items sold separately for boys and girls. For example, when you start looking for corona sideboards, particularly character themed ones, you will be presented with the option of going for either boys furniture or girls furniture. They are in most cases quite similar in nature however when they are themed around a character or around something else, you will find that the theme tends to be geared towards either of the genders. Girls furniture would be prominently available in girl specific themes. Whereas boys furniture would show boyish characters and color combinations.

For example, girls furniture would usually be available in pink colours and bear popular characters such as Fairies, Hanna Montana and the like. Boys furniture on the other hand would be popularly made in blue and feature football characters as well as TV characters such as Ben 10, Thomas The Tank Engine and the like. However, there are many other furniture that are equally good for boys and girls making them suitable for both boys and girls. What you will discover along the way is that kids tend to like gender specific furniture when they are under aged but as soon as they mature, they tend to have an inclination towards plain bedding that is appropriate for all irrespective of age or gender.

DIY Tips For How To Fix Loose Or Broken Ceramic Floor Tiles

prodecoration — Wed, 23 Mar 2016 14:08:03 +0000

Ceramic tiles can crack or come unhinged after time. Luckily, because they come in tiles rather than as a complete set, it’s easy to fix them when they come loose or one gets cracked.

Fixing Loose Tiles

To handle one or more that come loose, simply remove the loose tiles. If the adjoining ones are also loose, scrape out the grout around them and then carefully pry them out, too. Slip a narrow putty knife under them to break loose any remaining mastic. Scrape the underside of the tiles and the underlayment to remove old mastic, then put fresh mastic on the underlayment and press the tiles into place. Allow the mastic to dry for 24 hours and then regrout the tiles.

Fixing Broken Tiles

Cracked or broken tiles are removed and replaced in the same manner. You remove the broken tiles and pieces, if they come apart, from the area with the adhesive using a putty knife. The problem is that you can break the tiles around them if you’re not careful, so consider breaking it into smaller pieces rather than trying to take out the whole chunk at once. For larger tiles, you can also drill several holes and break up the tile that way. Don’t drill too deep to keep from breaking the waterproofing membrane that keeps water from getting on the floor underneath the bathtub. Cut the grout around the tiles first, then pry out the broken pieces, clean the underlayment, put the new tile down in fresh mastic, and regrout.

How To Regrout A Shower

prodecoration — Tue, 15 Mar 2016 09:17:40 +0000

You can clean your shower all you want, but eventually, there comes a time when you’re going to have to remove your old shower grout and replace it with brand new shower grout.

Grout is the material that locks tiles together and keeps moisture from penetrating your expensive tile. It is used throughout the house, but mainly in the bathroom, all over your shower and tile floors. Over time, grout starts to peel and become dirty. Cleaning does help, but fortunately enough, you can also regrout your shower without a big financial debt.

Below, I will show you how to regrout a shower and all the materials you need to complete this time-consuming, yet effective home remodeling project.

Materials Needed To Regrout

Like any project, there are basic materials and tools one needs to complete the job and others that make the job easier to complete. For any regrouting project, make sure you purchase:

Utility Knife
Grout Remover or Grout Rake
Dusk Mask
Goggles
Masking Paper
Vacuum
Caulk
Grout (waterproof)
Grout Spreader or Grout Float
Mixing Bucket
Putty Knife or Grout Mixing Tool
Sponge & Cleaning Supplies

Now, there are certain tools that can make your regrouting project easier and less time-consuming. In addition to all the materials above, I recommend purchasing:

Electric Grout Remover
Caulk Gun
Gloves
Stain (Color Grout)
Grout Enhancer
Grout Saw
Scrub Brush
Grout Saw

How To Remove Grout

Over time, your grout has undoubtedly settled into place and formed a very hard surface in between all your tiles. As such, if you use a standard grout removal tool, the project will be labor intensive. In fact, that is why hiring a professional is so expensive. The labor charge makes up a majority of the invoice. By comparison, materials for a regrouting project ranges between $180 and $420.

To cut down on the intensity and labor of the project, you could purchase an electric grout remover. Its high-speed bit effortlessly chews away old grout and guides you between the tiles, preventing expensive tile repairs.

Nevertheless, no matter what tool you are using, start by putting on your goggles, dusk mask and rubber gloves. Then, cover the tub and surrounding areas with masking paper. If you are working near the drain, cover that as well. Grout and plumbing do not get along. Also, turn on your bathroom fan and open all windows and doors.

Take your grout remover (whether it be electric or not) and place the blade tip directly on the grout. For a standard grout remover, the blade tips face one way, so only move in one direction. Firmly, move across the grout as if you were butterflying a big piece of chicken. Start in the middle of your shower and move your way out. Do the vertical lines first, before moving onto the horizontal lines.

Remember, the grout is going to be tough. In order to remove your shower grout, a little elbow grease will be needed. Just be careful not to cut any of your existing tiles. For larger grout lines, I highly recommend an electric remover. It’s not only faster, but makes the job much easier to complete.

Once you have removed all the old grout, clean the tiles with a damp sponge and your chosen cleaning supplies.

Regrout Your Shower

Before you choose a grout, make sure you take an extra piece of tile, or a picture of your tile, to your nearest hardware store. Talk with a pro to find out what type and color go best in your shower. More than likely, you will choose the same color you had before (white or gray) and a waterproof grout designed for showers and bathrooms. Additionally, you should use sanded grout for wide joints (1/16 to 1/8 inch) and unsanded for narrower joints.

Once the entire area has been cleaned, you can start mixing your grout. Some grouts will come in ready-mixed forms. If you are mixing grout yourself, only mix the amount you think you will use in 30 minutes. Otherwise, the grout may hard and won’t be able to transfer.

You can mix the grout with water or grout enhancer. Grout enhancers can improve its durability and stain resistance. Mix using your putty knife until you form a creamy paste. Do not over mix and create air bubbles. Once mixed, it’s time to apply to the shower.

Place a chunk of grout on your grout float or grout spreader. For larger showers, a grout float is recommended and it will undoubtedly save you time and energy. Use whichever tool you chose to work the grout across the tile. Apply the replacement grout at a 45-degree angle. Work it thoroughly into the spaces between tiles so there are no air bubbles or gaps. You may have to use the edges of a grout spreader to push the remaining grout into its appropriate spots. Cover the entire surface and work at a steady pace. No breaks as the grout can harden in 30 minutes or less.

Once all grout is added, clean off all excess grout with a wet sponge. If you accidently remove any wanted grout while cleaning, you can add some back using your finger or putty knife. If you wish, you can now apply new caulk to the outskirts of the shower. New caulk makes sense when regrouting a shower.

Let the grout harden for 30 minutes and then use your grout saw to give it an even appearance. Let the grout sit for another three hours and then take some wet paper towels and wipe off the powdery film that usually remains.

Conclusion

Regrouting your shower is not a project for the weak. At the most basic level, it takes and time and energy to complete the job correctly. However, now that you have seen how it’s done, you will never have to pay for a regrouting professional again.

How to Install Laminate Flooring

prodecoration — Thu, 10 Mar 2016 10:16:23 +0000

Laminate flooring has risen in popularity over the past few decades. While a surprising array of styles, colors, and textures are available, laminate flooring is most often seen as an affordable alternative to solid or hardwood. Put simply, laminate flooring can offer a wood-look floor, but at a fraction of the cost.

In its most common form, these floors are engineered, that is they are composite products, typically manufactured by pressing, or laminating, multiple layers of digital imagery to a core of HDF or High Density Fiberboard (basically recycled wood fiber). These products are often treated chemically to promote spill and moisture resistance.

Not to be confused with its higher priced and more mature older brother, “the engineered floor,” laminate flooring still yields comparative benefits including stability (general resistance to expansion and contraction), plus additional benefits like protection against scratching, denting, scuffing, burning, and fading. Most manufacturers offer substantive warranties, usually ranging from 5 to 50 years.

This category of floor can generally be considered fastenerless because it doesn’t need nails or screws. The most popular configurations do not require glue and are click-type. With these glueless, click-type products being the most readily available, this article focuses on installing just that–a “tongue and groove” floating, wood-look floor.

Materials

Tape measure
Miter saw, circular saw, and jigsaw
Utility knife
Straight edge or carpenter’s square
Hammer or flooring mallet
Beater block
Flooring bar

Caulk gun
Pencil
Flooring material
Coordinating transitions and molding
Underlayment (depends on manufacturer and installation location)
Water resistant caulk
½-inch spacers

Skill Level

Intermediate

Estimated Time

8 to 10 hours

As mentioned above, this how-to article focuses on the installation of a click-type laminate floor. While click profiles (the tongues and grooves that fit together in a floor) vary greatly from manufacturer to manufacturer (and even from line to line), following these basic steps should ensure success.

Plan the Layout

1. Buying Your Material

In your layout phase, you should consider how much flooring you’ll need to cover your given room. Square footage yield is typically printed right on the packaging of your purchase. Some makers will also offer online calculators to assist with your buy. Because lots, the run of a given product, may change within a given product line over time, it is often a good idea to buy one full box more than your installation requires.

2. Find Your Vantage Point(s) and Create an Exit Plan

When planning for installation, you should consider “vantage point”–the point(s) from which a floor will be most prominently or most frequently viewed. It is a good idea to decide on a single, primary vantage point–usually a doorway, stair landing, or other room entrance.

Beyond incorporating a medallion or some other bit of design pizazz, laminate flooring, because it is fastenerless, also gives you a ton of design flexibility. You have the option to run your flooring parallel, perpendicular, or even diagonal to your vantage point(s). Though it does not present the same challenges as tiling (where a floor being installed cannot be disturbed), it is always a good idea to “plan your exit”. Plan to work back towards your primary vantage point.

Prepare the Surface

3. Prep the Substrate

Laminate flooring is generally seen as one of the most versatile of all flooring options. These products may go down over almost any surface. The substrate on which you lay your product can range anywhere from unfinished plywood to an existing wood floor, and all the way to bare concrete. (It is always a good idea to check the manufacturer’s installation instructions for requirements given what you plan to go over.)

Compared to solid wood, laminate flooring is generally thinner, meaning preparation is of added importance. You should strive to minimize the possibilities that imperfections in your substrate will broadcast to your soon-to-be newly installed and finished floor. Again, different measures could be required depending on your given substrate. (e.g. Concrete patching and leveling for concrete, screwing and sanding for a wood floor, etc.)

4. Installing Your Underlayment

Follow your manufacturer’s recommendations for underlayments. These underlayments are meant to provide cushion under foot. Additionally, they take up some of the irregularity that can be expected in any substrate. Options include sound reduction and moisture control or both. These products typically come in three- to four-and-a-half-foot wide rolls, and can be cut easily using a utility knife and a straight edge.

Roll out your underlayment such that your entire substrate is covered, following the requirements of the underlayment. In most cases, you will not be overlapping seams. While some products will call or allow for taping, gluing, or fastening, it is not typically needed. Fastening, in fact, may be a no-no given the thickness of your new floor. In most installations, the weight of your floor will simply hold the underlayment down.

Cut the Laminate Flooring

5. Set Up a Cutting Station

Working with laminate flooring couldn’t be easier. While laminate flooring can be cut (if your selected product fits) within a miter box or by using a back saw, speed up the installation process by employing a chop or miter saw. While this project could easily be considered a one-person job, grab your spouse or a neighbor and set up a “cutting station,” where one person cuts and one person lays.

Lay the Laminate Flooring

6. Check for the Square Footage of Your Room and Plan for Expansion and Contraction

Arguably the most important phase of your install is laying your first row of flooring. At your starting point, typically a wall, you’ll be employing ½-inch spacers. Many manufacturers provide laminate flooring installation kits that include these needed spacers. Alternatively, cut them from ½-inch thick plywood or otherwise sacrifice a board from your flooring package, possibly ganging multiple pieces together to achieve around a ½-inch measurement.

Important! Prior to laying anything check the squareness of your walls and room! This can be done by simply measuring your room near the floor or by striking reference lines and using math. Make adjustments as needed.

While traditional thinking calls for a ½ inch of space at all walls (to account for expansion and contraction), the stability of these products may allow you to get away with slightly less. (Again, refer to your manufacturer’s recommendations.)

7. Laying Your First Course of Boards

Put your first board in the top left corner of your room with the “tongue” out, facing the center of the room. Remember, we hope to achieve a ½ inch space at intersecting walls as well.

Most products are manufactured such that a tongue is not only present on the long edge of boards, but also on their shorter end. Work carefully as you place your second board. Running along your starter wall, you’ll snap these “end-joints” together. Ensure that corners of boards line up and touch. Continue this process until you come to the other side of the room.

8. Cutting Boards

More than likely, this is the first point at which a cut will be required. Measure and cut your last piece, again remembering to subtract a ½ inch. You can use your cut-off here as your first piece in the second course, providing it is at least 10 inches long.

To snap this cut piece into place, the last board in your first course, you may want to reach for a flooring pull bar, applying gentle pressure or lightly tap it with a hammer to force it snug to the rest of the flooring.

Important! The key point here is that if you take care and get this first course perfect, the rest of your installation will go smoothly, and you won’t end up with a funky angle in your flooring when you look downward from your primary vantage point.

9. Getting in a Groove: Laying your Second Course of Flooring

As mentioned above, you are likely to use the leftover from your first cut piece to start your second course (again, providing it is 10 inches long). As you set your second (and all additional) course(s), make sure that your end-joints are staggered by at least 8 inches.

Your second course is your first opportunity to fully employ your product’s click system. Angle the boards in this course (as well as all subsequent courses) to around 45 degrees and carefully snap them down into place. In some instances, you may be required to lift the previous row slightly to help with angling successive courses into place.

As you work, use a beater block (or similar tool) and a flooring mallet. Tap the edge and end of your boards lightly to ensure that your installation is tight. Warning: Don’t over tighten.

Finish Laying the Flooring

10. Installing the Rest of the Field

Continue by using the methods described above throughout the rest of the room, periodically ensuring that your floor boards are fitting snugly together and securely to the floor.

11. Fitting and Installing Your Final Course

For your final course, your flooring may require rip cuts. To measure these pieces:

A. Take a piece of your flooring material (Board 2) and sit it immediately on top of your last installed piece (Board 1).
B. Grab a third piece of your material, and place that tightly against the wall, remembering to include your ½-inch spacers.
C. Transfer a mark using a pencil from this third board to your second board–this will give you your needed cut line.
D. Cut using a circular saw or a table saw.
Once cut, slide this board into place. Again, a flooring pull bar will ensure it will fit snugly.

12. Dealing with Other Obstacles in the Field

Typically the floor in your room will contain an air vent or a pipe. Accounting for and fitting boards around them can require finesse. These “cut outs” can typically be addressed using a jigsaw, a router, a multi-tool, or a drill fitted with an appropriate hole saw.

13. Caulking at the Perimeter

Some would advise caulking around the perimeter of your flooring installation. This is absolutely advisable in locations prone to water. When caulking, select a high quality caulk rated for porous fiberboard and that provides not only water resistance but also flexibility.

14. Finishing at Transitions and Molding

Manufacturers often provide matching materials for finishing your floor as they meet other flooring materials, carpet, or tile. The most common components here being reducer or transition (T-) strips. These are often nailed, screwed, or glued into place. Look for these as you make your initial flooring purchase and plan to grab additional tools and supplies as needed.

Similarly, manufacturers often provide quarter round, or shoe molding, which yields a finished look at your walls. Remember, you’ll need to cover at minimum a ½ inch space at your walls. These are typically cut with a miter saw (at your cutting station) and installed with a pneumatic nail gun.

Level of Difficulty

As outlined, laminate flooring is a great option for those intent on achieving a “wood-look” for a fraction of the cost of wood. Throughout this article, other benefits beyond cost are mentioned. If these few basic steps are followed laminate flooring installation is well within the reach of any DIYer with a moderate, but still modest, skill set.

That said, it may be a good idea to consult with (or even hire) a professional floor installation service supplier when installing laminate flooring in wet locations (like bathrooms) and in locations (like basements) where there has been a history of moisture.

Make Your Backyard Look Good Through Landscaping

prodecoration — Fri, 04 Mar 2016 09:27:12 +0000

For property holders all around the world, a huge piece of owning a house is landscaping the backyard. The front yard is vital on the grounds that it is more noticeable to neighbors and other people who drive by, the lawn is no less essential. The patio is the place where families and companions assemble for grills and birthday parties and where a few family members put their swimming pools. Most terraces are arranged with cautious thought and planning. Exceptional thought is put into the situating of each piece of turf, every enhancing stone and the majority of the types of blooms that decorate a patio.

Blossoms, stones and grass are only a percentage of the approaches to scene a lawn. Extensive shade trees, waterfalls and home grown patio nurseries are some different ways. The subject of your scene will rely on upon your interests, hobbies and objectives for your patio. Lawn arranging can be a ton of fun, particularly when you make it individual.

In the event that you and your family like to engross, add a bar to your back porch. Clean up the grill flame broil and keep in mind the citronella candles to keep the bugs away. Perhaps you’ll need to fabricate a croquet course, smaller than normal green, or put in a sand parcel for some sand volleyball. Whatever your inclination, make terrace finishing a good time for the entire gang.

Remember your family as well, when it comes time to keep up the patio finishing. Extensive yards will oblige a considerable measure more support and preparing. Dealing with the yard can be a decent family movement.

How to Install Hardwood Flooring

prodecoration — Fri, 19 Feb 2016 08:21:21 +0000

Installing hardwood flooring might present big challenges for a novice builder. Following the best technique for hardwood flooring will produce you a bright, durable and beautiful product for on your construction project. Read below the most commonly used techniques for hardwood flooring installation.

Hardwood Flooring Installation Areas

A hardwood floor could be installed above grade or on grade in the following subfloors:

Wood Subfloors either plywood or OSB board. Remember that wood subfloors must be structurally sound and free from movement.
Concrete subfloors. When installing hardwood flooring on concrete, this must be at least 30 days old, and must have passed all moisture tests.
Hardwood flooring could be installed over radiant heating systems, only if approved and recommended by the manufacturer.
Hardwood flooring could also be installed over tile, stone, bamboo and vinyl. These surfaces must be checked for integrity prior hardwood installation.

Hardwood floors are not recommended in areas where high moisture is present, unless approved by manufacturer.

Hardwood Flooring Installation: Techniques

Hardwood flooring installation could be done using the following techniques:

Glue down Installation
Nail Down / Staple Installation
Floating Engineered Installation
Glue less Installation

Hardwood Flooring Installation: Surface Preparation

Remove all existing flooring.

Verify moisture levels using a moisture meter to test subfloor moisture. A maximum of 4 percent is allowed between the subfloor and the hardwood flooring.

A PH alkalinity test must be performed on all concrete subfloors.

A calcium chloride test is also recommended on concrete subfloors.

Your subfloor surface must be level, clean and free of bumps. If required use self-leveling products and sand down high spots.

Store your hardwood floor near or where it will be installed. It is recommended that your hardwood floor could have the same characteristics as the place where it will be installed.

Measure your hardwood flooring moisture and follow strict manufacturer's recommendations.

Remove all door casings in the area where the hardwood flooring will be installed.

Remove door and molding.

Sweep and pick up any debris from your floor before the hardwood flooring installation.

Hardwood Flooring Installation: Material

Installing hardwood floor requires some basics materials such as:

Broom
Carpenter’s square
Chalk line
Crow Bar
Electric Saw with carbide tipped blade
Hammer
Jig saw
Spacers
Tapping block
Utility knife
Utility towels
Soft rubber mallet
There are other materials needed depending on the type of hardwood installation.

Hardwood Flooring Installation: Tips

The following tips are recommended when installing hardwood flooring:

Use a carbide tipped blade to cut the hardwood flooring.
Saw the pre-finished side first to minimize chipping the hardwood flooring.
To reduce the chipping possibility, use blue painters tape as a guide.
Roll out enough felt paper to cover the sub-floor and trim the edges.
Leave an expansion gap at the starting and ending rows. The gap should be the same as the thickness of the hardwood flooring.
Move the hardwood into position using a tapping block.
Avoid cutting hardwood flooring inside the room where the installation will take place.
Professional installers recommend start working from left to right.
Use the manufacturers recommended floor cleaner to remove any marks that you might have produced during installation.
When measuring the boards to fit at the end of the row, use a board that is longer than the space. Flip it upside down so that the tongue is now facing towards the installed boards. Make a mark and then transfer the mark to the surface of the board. Using an electric saw carefully cut the board at the mark that you made.
Do not hit the hardwood flooring directly.

Reference:

A Guide to Install Timber Flooring;

PREPARATION FOR OAK FLOORING INSTALLATION.

How To Replace Broken Tile

Demi Stewart — Wed, 03 Feb 2016 07:02:43 +0000

You spent good money to make your floor tile shine, but more often than not, that tile is going to wear and eventually, break. Fortunately, rather than hiring a pro to repair your broken tile, you can fix it yourself.

No matter how the tile broke, the way to prevent two or more broken tiles is to repair it carefully.

Video: How to Easily Remove and Replace Broken Tile

Conclusion

Repairing broken tile is not as hard as it looks. It may be messy, but when done right, can save you hundreds on a tile repair bills.

Tools Needed

Hammer
Painter’s Multi-Tool
Notched Trowel
Sponge Float
Grout Sponge
Rags
Margin Trowel (for mixing)
2-Gallon Bucket
Thin Set
Grout

Tips for Fixing Broken Tile

Always remove broken tile carefully.
Forgo the sledgehammer and just use a hammer and a painter’s multi-tool.
Remove all leftover thin set before adding new tile.
A little water goes a long way with the thin set.
You can butter the floor and below the tile for a smoother finish.
Don’t forget about grout.

Resource: www.improvenet.com

How to Install Ductless Range Hoods

Demi Stewart — Thu, 21 Jan 2016 08:39:26 +0000

When you are thinking about upgrade options for your kitchen, consider installing a ductless range hood. Range hoods immediately add vertical interest and give your kitchen a modern, updated feel. Since they are ductless they can be easily installed in the place where the overhead cabinet or microwave used to sit and do not require that you cut vent holes in your ceiling and roofline. Check your local building code before installing a ductless unit to ensure that they are allowed.

A ductless range hood will require an electrical outlet that is dedicated to the range hood. For our purposes, we are assuming that you have had an electrician run electrical circuit wires from the circuit breaker box to the location where the outlet will be installed, behind the vertical “chimney” of the range hood. If you’re not certain of your wire connection skills, you should also have the electrician connect the outlet.

Things You'll Need

Range Hood
Tape measure
Pencil
Level
2-inch drywall screws
‘Old work’ box
Electrical outlet (duplex 15-amp)
Cardboard
Electrical circuit tester

Drywall saw
Mallet
Screwdrivers (Phillips-head and slot-head)
Wire stripper
Tracing paper
1/8-inch drill bit
Drill
Stud finder

Tip

Take precautions to protect your range by adding cardboard over the top of it.

Step 1: Find the Center Point on the Wall

Using a tape measure, find the center point on your wall. If you are working between two upper cabinets, then measure and mark the half-way between those cabinets. Double-check your center point to make sure it is centered above your cooking range. Once you have found the center point, use a level and draw a vertical line from your range to the ceiling.

Step 2: Check Your Measurements

All range hoods come with recommendations for how far above the range they can be placed; most can be mounted from 29″ to 34″ above the range. Measure from your range top to your ceiling to find out how much available space you have for the range hood. Now you will need to determine where to place the range hood and chimney assembly within the available space, positioning it so that the range hood matches the recommended height above the range.

Set the chimney on top of the range hood and measure from the bottom of the range hood to the top of the chimney with the chimney at its shortest length. Make sure that this distance is less than the distance from the bottom of the range hood to the ceiling. If not, you will need to mount your range hood lower on the wall. Make sure that the electrical wire drop for the outlet fits between the top of the range hood and the ceiling.

The goal of all of these measurements is to mark where the bottom of the range hood will sit as well as where the top of the range hood will lie.

Step 3: Install an Electrical Box in the Drywall

Position the ‘old work’ box face-first against the wall where your wires emerge. Trace around the edges of the box to mark the opening where the box will fit. The outlet needs to be somewhere along the center line and within the area that the range hood chimney will cover.

Using an electrical circuit tester, check to make sure you have the correct breaker off. Always double-check the electrical tester against a circuit that you know is live to make sure the tester is working. If the wires are live, find the circuit breaker controlling the circuit and switch it off.

Once the circuit is off, use a drywall saw to cut along your pre-marked box line. It’s safest to start with a small hole and look for wires or other obstructions as you go.

Tap the drywall out with a mallet. Pry open the holes on the back of the ‘old work’ box and thread the circuit wires through it. Once the wires are threaded into the box, insert the box into the wall opening. Tighten the screws on the box to secure it in place.

Step 4: Connect the Electrical Outlet

Prepare each insulated wire by stripping away 1/2″ of insulation, using a wire stripper. Then, bend the exposed end of each wire into a tight ‘J’ shape. Loosen one of the brass-colored screws on the electrical receptacle, then loop the “J” on the black wire around the brass (hot) screw in a clockwise direction. Tighten the screw firmly. Now, attach the white wire to one of the silver (neutral) screws in the same manner. Finally, attach the bare copper ground wire to the green (grounding) screw, located on the bottom of the receptacle. Carefully tuck the wires into the box, taking care not to loosen any of the connections. Connect the straps of the electrical outlet to the box using the mounting screws. Turn on the power running to the outlet and test that it works. Troubleshoot, if needed, and then attach the cover plate.

Step 5: Mark Wall for the Bracket

Hold a large piece of tracing paper up to the back of the range hood (where the mounting bracket holes are located) and trace the holes onto the paper. Double-check your measurements from Step 1 by holding the paper in place on the wall. Mark the wall to show where the drywall screws will go.

Using a drill and 1/8-inch bit, drill pilot holes at the marked location, then drive the drywall screws in and tighten until they are just barely protruding. The range hood will hang from these screws as you find wall studs and anchor the range hood firmly.

Step 6: Add the Chimney Bracket

Directly on your center line and at the ceiling, add your chimney bracket, using drywall screws.

Step 7: Attach the Range Hood and Secure

Slip the range hood over your mounting screws, then tighten the screws. Now, use a stud finder to find two studs that run behind the range hood. Once found, mark the studs. Then, from underneath the range hood, anchor the range hood to the studs at the marked lines. These marks will be underneath the hood and will not be noticeable.

Step 8: Attach the Chimney and Secure

Before you attach the chimney, plug the range hood into the electrical outlet. Turn the range hood on and check that everything is working as it should. Slip the chimney in over the mounting hardware of the range hood. You do not need to add anything inside the chimney. Install the filters for re-circulating air. This range hood is ductless, and it recirculates the air and pushes it out through vents in the chimney..

Secure the chimney to the body of the range hood with the provided screws.

Tip

When doing electrical work, it’s important to make sure you are following local building codes and it’s always a good idea to have an electrician check your work.

The final step is cleaning your kithen, and enjoy your brand new ductless range hood.

Resource: www.ehow.com